Fold-over collar



Dec. 28 1926.

J. w. HESS FoLD ovER coLLAR Filed June 14, 1921 Patented Dec. 28, 19265.

STATES way l,6lZ,763

PA'EENT JC'EIIT WLIALY'E HESS, OF KITCHENR, ON'I'ARIO, CANADA, ASSIGNOR T0 CLUETT,

8:. COl'v'lEANY, INC., 01? TRGY, NEW YORK, A CRORATON OF NEVJ' FOLD-OVER COLLAR.

Application filed. June 14, 1921. Serial No. 477,536.

My invent-ion relates to fold-over collars of the soft type, to be worn either unstarched or very lightly starched, and has for its object the construction of such a collar with few component parts of simple structure. economical to manufacture, but nevertheless possessing qualities which enable it to retain its desired Shape and design, and particularly to hold its intended fold along a predetermined line.

In the drawings hereto annexed, which illustrate my invention, Fig. l is a plan view of the outside of a fold-over collar, laid flat, and Fig. 2 is a cross section of the collar, at and near the line of fold, on an enlarged scale.

rThe collar comprises, essentially, only three parts or members, namely the band B, top T and a juncture-covering tape C. The band and top pieces are cut to shapes appropriate to their position in use from heavy, closely-woven fabric, and preferably of the same fabric, having greater body and stiffness than the similarly shaped pieces heretofore usually employed in the manufacture of collars, and which are assembled to form tops and hands each composed of several layers of cloth. The fabric I employ may be variously woven, and is thiok enough and stilf enough to be inherently self sustaining, i. e., capable of standing without crumpling or Wrinkling. lVhen cut.y as by dies, from the piece, the top and band members have edges from which ravel- .ings inevitably project. In a finished collar these raw edges must be bound, hemmed, or otherwise rendered smooth and sightly. Moreover, in order that a fold-over collar of this Character shall hold its shape, though unstarched, it is necessary to make sure that the fold will be formed in the top near the edge of the band. A preferred way to do this is to hold the edge of the band flat by some form of reinforcement and thus permanently define the line along which the top folds and hangs from the band, and prevent the band from folding. By means of the structure and mode of assembling the several parts of the collar. herein described, these desiderata are secured, with what I believe to be a minimum of collar-members and a minimum of manufacturing Operations, assuming as a datum that the top and band are to be Originally distinct pieces.

The collar band B is bound, hernmed or, as shown, edge-turned all around its periphery. At and along the fold line, it is turned and creased at B1, the edge part B2 lying` with the raw edge B3 againsty the body of the band. The collar top T is similarly edge-turned, making a fold-line at T1. long this fold line, the edge part T2 of the collar' top is overlaid upon the infolded edge part of the collar band. The raw edges of the inturned margins of both top and band lie approximately in coincidence. ;ft covering tape O, a little wider than the inturned margins of the top and band, is then overlaid upon the margin of the collar-top, and joined to the top and band by a line of stitching S1, which passing through the tape C, collar top margin T2 and two thicknesses of the band material, follows the Contour of the designed fold line of the collar. The tape O, which slightly overlaps the raw edges of the inturned margins of both top and band, is stitched to the body of the band B by a line of stitching S, which lies substantially parallel with the upper line of stitches S1.

rl `he inturned margins of both top T and band B, along the peripheries of both parts, are elsewhere finished so as to secure and bind in the raw edges. Hems ofv any desired fashion may be employed, or covering edgetapes. I prefer, however, in the interest of simplicity, to bind in the inturned margins with a zig-zag stitch, as indicated at D and D1, these stitches lying` on the inside of the top and band respectively. I do not herein claim this mode of linishing the edges of a collar, which is no part of my invention.

The four thicknesses of material, formed by the top and band folds and the covering tape, provide a strong, rigid structure tending to hold the band erect, and permanently to induce a fold line in the top of the collars near the edge of the band, thus tending to prevent local sagging or crumpling of the collar' when it is on the neck of the wearer,

,and insuring a seemly hang of the foldlit) self-sustaining' fabricof unitoi'in flexibility throughout, and a eovering tape, the band being edge-l`olded on itselt', the raw edge ot' the top being turned to overlie the olded edge of the band, the covei'ing tape overlying the turn-ed edge of the top and overlapping the turned edges ot both top and band, and stitched to the band body directly along a line adj acent to the inturned edge parts of both band and top, and to the band and top alone` a line adjacent to the told ot' the top, the heavy intnrned, conjoined and over-taped junotui'e between band and top iioi'ining a l'elatively i'igid structure indneing a told in the top near the edge of the band.

2. A collar having a band and a top.,` ot each o' which the pi'incipal extent ie coni-l prised of a unifol'm single thickness ot"- Woven teXtile tablic, sntficiently thicl': and stiif to be inhei'ently self-snstaining, band and top being conj-oined, the juncture comprising ov-erlapped poi'tions constitutinpj 'multiple layers of said fabl'ic of nnitoi'ni thickness conJoined in a l'elatively i'ig'id structure predetei'mining a Jtold line in the adiacent unifoi'in fabiic of the top.

3. A told-over oollar, having a top piece and a band piece having` a iold at its top edge separately shaped :ti'om heavy material of nnifoi'ni tlexibility through-out, and conjoined in a seani involving layoi's of the I.'e speotive pieces lying parallel With and near the tolded top edge of the band, the structni'e including a covei'ing` tape for the seain ovei'lying said tolds, Whei'eby the band tends to rei'nain flat, and the top to ;told over adjacent the said seam.

4. A old-ovei` collat, having` a top piece and a band piece having' a told at its top edge sepal'ately shaped from single thicknefses of lil' heavy material ot nnifoi'in thiclness and pliahility, said top and band being;` conj-oined in a .Seain involvinglayei's ot the respective pieoes lying parallel With and neai' the olded top edge ot the band,

the structure including a (ovei'ing tape for i the Seain ofei'lyinp; said olds, and stitchholding the elements of the sean'i in i ace, vinci'eby the band tendsl to reinain flat, and the top to told oveiI adjacent the said Seana.

tligned by me at Kitchenef, Ontario, this Sixth day ot June, 1921.

J (ll-IN VILLAM HESS. 

